The edge of the Atlantic.

Recently, we spent a week in Cape Breton, meandering through Cape Breton Highlands National Park and along the Cabot Trail.

We stayed in Chéticamp, a small fishing town on the Western edge of Cape Breton. At first glance it seems like a quiet, peaceful place—until you learn that Chéticamp is home to Les Suêtes, some of the strongest winds in the country. When Les Suêtes blow, wind speeds of 200 km/h are not unheard of. We experienced one storm during our time there, a small one by local standards. It was strong enough to make going outside nearly impossible, since it could rip doors off hinges, make car doors impossible to open, and knock a person down. The air pressure was so intense that the water level in the toilets kept surging with each gust. Locals were entirely unbothered. During the stronger storms, they’re used to be stranded at home for days.

But when the winds didn’t blow, we explored: a dramatic coastline of cliffs and seabirds. An abandoned graveyard on the quiet, near-empty Chéticamp Island; the breathtaking highlands in the national park; the cute small towns of Cape Breton. It was a beautiful trip and the epitome of slow, cozy travel.